(or at least in select countries in Asia as of right now, 2017)
Those who may be familiar with my blog, I love my Urban Decay Naked foundation and have used it in most of my makeup tutorials~ So of course, I was absolutely thrilled when I read that Urban Decay was releasing this cushion option into their line! Especially, since as of recently, I've been quite a fan of cushion foundations.
The line comes equipped with a pretty sizable amount of shades (at least for an Asian cushion line). I believe there are 6 options in total for light to medium skin tones but all with varied undertones; olive, neutral, and ruddy~ I quite enjoy that they have the multiple options since most cushions tend to be more on the neutral side and sometimes cast as grey on me. The shade I chose was 2.75 which is a golden undertone light/medium shade in the line, which, for comparison, I am a 3.0 in Urban Decay's Naked Skin line. The undertone match is pretty close to mine and just a hair lighter in shade than my skin which isn't even noticeable since it does match my neck and chest.
According to the packaging, the product boasts that it will deliver a flawless and luminous 'naked glow' that is buildable and will keep skin hydrated for 18++ hours with the addition of a SPF 50+ PA+++. It also contains added skin benefits like most other cushion foundations including; Rose centifolia extract, for toning and firming, Gentian root extract, the provides skin soothing, and peppermint extract, which conditions the skin.
I do have a slight grievance, in that one must purchase the compact and the refill, separately, in order to make a complete set, which is a bit frustrating since the cost does add up. I paid roughly $20 for the compact and $40 for the foundation itself not adding shipping/shopping service fee. I do own more expensive cushions but I guess I feel less taken advantage of since those come as a complete set with refills usually available for purchase direct from the brands.
The packaging on the compact is a beautiful iridescent cover which looks amazing on my vanity and a metallic lavender case. The pouf is decent... Nothing special about it, I don't find it amazing and I could easily interchange it with say my Etude House pouf and I wouldn't be able to tell a difference with application. I do like the closure of the cushion since I can feel it lock into place and I'm not just applying a ton of pressure onto my cover to ensure I have a solid seal on my foundation so it wont dry out.
Taking a look at the cushion, it's actually my first air/mesh style in my collection which is a change. In all honesty, I don't quite get the mesh style cushion but from what I do understand, it helps control the amount of product used and apparently is more sanitary? Regardless, it seems to work just the same as my normal cushions. The constancy of the foundation isn't that runny, if anything I'd almost describe it as a gel or jelly texture and when applied feels a bit tacky. The formula has no strong scent which is nice, but I do tend to enjoy when cushion foundations smell medicinal or herbal but the lack of a scent isn't a make or break issue with me.
Application of the formula is where the problems become quite apparent. Above, is a photo of just the foundation itself.
So the foundation starts off okay on the first pounce, but once I started blending it into my skin, it would stick to any uneven surfaces which I have quite a few such as excema spots and I was having a couple breakouts this time of month too. Also, a bit of an overshare, but I did pick at a spot ( or 2) and the application of foundation on the scab was HORRENDOUS, the foundation caked into my fine lines and any small crevices on my face and just sunk into my pores and made them look even more noticeable.
Besides the textured skin issue, I found that it could barely cover my hyperpigmentation spots nor give any semblance of an even skin tone. I tend to have sallow skin near the corners of my lips and under my eyes and all my foundations have been able to even them out but not with this one!
The foundation says buildable but I found that it 'built up' and accentuated the patchiness, and even started to look a bit chalky. By the time I decided to just let it rest, the ending result left my skin in a state of disarray! Even the dry down texture was so sticky and made my skin feel so oily, which is quite odd because I have normal/combo skin that doesn't ever tend to feel immediately greasy upon initial foundation application. Moreso, the end result was quite matte which belied the sensation on my skin.
To salvage the look of my skin, it became a test on how much work my concealer could do. Then to make my skin feel less gummy I set my makeup with translucent powder which I don't usually tend to do with cushion foundations because the main point of them, or at least the reason why I prefer them, is to retain a natural dewy sheen to my skin. So, the point to even wearing this foundation was moot.
If I were to say a positive, it did even out the colour of my skin, if anything. Any redness I had was covered, so if anyone has super clear and smooth skin and only had issues of red spots of slight discolourations, maybe it could work for them..
I really do have to share this photo immediately after the initial application photo. This was taken 4 hours after I finished my makeup and all I did was shoot this review, put away my lighting, and do some laundry. So, nothing too strenuous nor anything that would make me sweat excessively. Again, I'm not even excessively oily, but the foundation separated so extremely and so quickly! I've never ever had a foundation do that and I've put many of my foundations though the test though spin classes, hot yoga, going swimming and I've had a few patches but never such a noticeable break down of the formula on my skin. Even with setting powder and even my Ben Nye setting spray which I've used on stage/musical performances, though gym sessions and even to waterproof my makeup it couldn't even hold this together, which is maybe even a bit amazing. Really though, my skin looked and felt so oily and caked that I couldn't stand it.
I actually gave this foundation a chance! I used it for a whole week, and just barely pushed it by only wearing it for maybe an hour or two while out each time. So, shooting this tutorial was the longest I have warn it during a day. First day I used it was for dinner on my birthday and even just approaching my mum in low natural light she remarked on how bad my foundation looked, 'You're trying a new foundation aren't you, it looks horrible!' was pretty much an exact quote from her. Even my friend said it looked a bit patchy when I asked her opinion.
I mean, even with my lightly edited shots and from afar in the above pictures, you can see texture a pretty uneven finish with dark sallow patches!
Never have I given such a scathing review on my blog, but it's hard to give even a neutral opinion when I absolutely loathed a product as much as this, which is a shame because of all the makeup products that debuted this year this was the one I was so excited about and one I bullheadedly went out of my way to obtain as soon as I could after it's launch. So, it was quite disheartening that it failed in all aspects for me.
Would I recommend the foundation? Not unless one had almost perfect skin, or if someone wants to blow their money to just add it to their makeup collection. Otherwise, I'd say to stay clear of it.
Hopefully if it does release state-side, here in the US, they will fix the formula, but as it stands, two thumbs WAY down on this foundation.
<3CarisseIris
